October 9, 2015

Ford Runabout Rod Build: Part 2, fitting the flathead

The flathead was winched into place between the frame rails of the circa 27 model T runabout

The original, early-style water pumps had to be replaced with later-style ones. The difference being that the early engines mounted up front, with a front and center bar whereas later Flatty's mounted at their waterpump bosses.

Oddly though, when I went to mount these new (NOS? I wish. More likely Chinese repop...) pumps, I couldnt turn one of them past a full revolution. I wondered why? I took it back off and looked at the impeller base - do you see it? The litle bit of casting flap? Whatever it was it was hitting the inside of the block. A quick swipe with the angle grinder and it was gone though.

And so back to the task at hand...

And plop! Between the rails she went.

        Looks sweet! Stay tuned for the suspension....the cross members, mounts, suspension points....and the 10 million other bits that make a simple rod..... :)

1956 International Restoration 120 Series: Metal Working Bed and fenders

The next several weeks - and hundred-odd man-hours - will be dedicated to getting the metal close to the shape it should be in, attempting to reverse the many years of abuse, damage and rust.

The bed is the worst part by far. We purchased a new floor section, but just cutting out the old and fitting/welding in the new will be a major undertaking.

Besides the rust, the bed was pierced by the shocks when the truck was overloaded with frozen Pike and Pickerel fish, caught by so many ice-fishermen in an exceptionally good year.

But the truck was used for much more than hauling fish....

Here I'm using the impact chisel to remove some hardened cement that was lodged inside the rear tailgate channel....

The rear fenders will need a considerable amount of work as well - and these are the GOOD pair that came with a "better" box the owners brought in to replace the unusable original pieces!

Just as a teaser.....this is the same fender-corner that was shown "folded over" in a previous post. Little by little, we'll get there.

October 4, 2015

Ford Runabout Rod Build: Mocking up the E-rod

 Well, after collecting most everything needed to build a rod - then having it all sit around the yard for a year - I finally got to pulling it all together and into the shop - yay!

After humming and hawing for weeks about whether to use a custom frame made from 2x3" tubing, I finally said 'fluff-it" and decided to use the original frame for the project. Reasons being are 2-fold: First and foremost, I already have it. Second, It's an ORIGINAL Ford piece. And third (did I say 2-fold?) it's made of good old FORD Vanadium steel and I've been reading a lot about Ford's use of Vanadium so I'm fairly sure it will be able to withstand the Flathead power and hold the even lighter than stock bodywork.

I measured the flatty and the body shell against the frame and then pulled the shell to where it should sit going forward -

                  Then, I cut the rear portion of the box-frame off the body shell with the sawzall -


Leaving just the frame section protruding underneath. 
This section will be cut and Z'd next in order to get the ride-height set.

Here is it, ready to set the engine in between the frame rails. Once I get it sitting in there I will be able to measure for the engine mounts. Of course I still need to pull the truck-only front mount off and replace the water pumps with ones that have the integral mounts on them.

Just a little of the bling I've been collecting for the E-rod....

Stay tuned!

Metal-working panels on the International Harvester

                              Another day of metal working on the International Harvester. Using the hammer and dolly, I roughed out the worst sections of the panels that are currently sitting in the box. Once everyhting is as close as I can can get it by eye, I'll be able to bolt it up to check the alignment of each against its mounting point.

As well, I'm continuing to cover the rusted sections with Metal Ready 
in order to treat the rust that I won't be able to get at with the grinder: