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March 19, 2021

Sanding high-build primer: Hour 25

Continuing  on sanding the first coat of high build, adding a little glaze putty to remaining imperfections and catching anything that stands out....



After the first sanding of the first primer coat, there's always a few spots that need a little more attention than the primer can provide. In these cases a very thin skin of "Glaze" is used. It's somewhere between filler and filler-primer and meant to bring the body to the 99% stage.





This is the time to catch anything hidden or not quite right. For example, in the inside corner of the door I saw a little bubble. I thought it was some sealer or a weld, so I hit it with some coarse paper and found it was a tiny rust hole. So I ground it out, cleaned it up and treated it with Metal Prep, my go-to rust treatment. Next time around I'll fill it with some metal-based filler and smooth it all out.


Another issue I caught where a couple of hairline cracks on the inside the door edge, near the vent window frame. Caused by so-many years of the door flexing at the vent window opening. As the window was opened and closed the door frame flexed and eventual cracked. Had I not caught it it would have cracked through the paint and continue to worsen. To repair it after paint would have meant having to repair and repaint the entire door again.





It also happened lower down on the door, where the lower part 
of the vent window frame attached to the inner door shell.


Oddly, there was also this damage to the inner door jamb. It was hard to see until I blocked out the primer and it's almost the same on both doors! 
I can't figure how the hell it would have been damaged either...maybe the owners can tell me! 



This is how she looked tonight. Next time in I'll repair those last little bits and get a second, final coat of high-build on it. At this stage I'd say I'm about 15-20 hours from paint!




Except for......

A friend of the project found this tailgate from who knows where. It came sandblasted and was nearly rust free. It's also VERY solid - much more so than the one that same with this truck....


                               But, can you spell: "R-O-U-G-H??!!!". Well you're gonna learn!

The attachment corners are so badly damaged it looks as though, instead of unbolting the trunions, they just ripped it from the truck - red neck style!


The other side was just the same. That'll take hours each to straighten, weld, true and grind.

The bottom rolled end is all smashed in. Even if I can figure out how to repair that, it'll take many more ours. Might be easier to find a similar diameter pipe, cut the bottom esde off and weld the pipe on to emulate it!



Then, if by some miracle I can get all that done, I'll remove this 1968 plate 
- that was unceremoniously drilled and bolted to the tailgate -  and fill the holes behind it.


Stay tuned for more exciting times ahead as the truck gets color and we figure out how to repair this tailgate. Personally I'm praying for a 'new' tailgate to show up courtesy of one of the thousands of readers the blog has (I know,... I don't believe it either, but that's according to the Google-stats!)















March 12, 2021

Block-sanding weekend


I worked in my Dads body shop from about 1975 to 1982 and nothing was block sanded back then. We used a heavy rad-oxide lacquer based primer and just sanded it with a piece of folded sandpaper in the palm of the hand. Back then paint went with lots of "orange-peel and no clear - so it wasn't as shiny and therefore didn't show as much. People where less picky then too because the paint that came out of the factory wasn't as nice as it is now.

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But now-a-day, panels are expected to be laser straight and shiny, so we block sand high-build primer - with long blocks - to ensure everything is straight. It makes a huge difference, but it's also a huge undertaking.

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Next weekend I'll finish up this first round of block sanding, address any larger imperfections, then spray a final coat of high build. This final layer will be final sanded to 400 wet for sealer and paint. Which is to say we might have this thing in paint sometime in April... (no promises of course! ;))

Stay tuned!

1956 IH Engine installation - the truck is WHOLE again!

The power plant is finally 

re-united with the truck!!!


                          Inline-6, in all it's glory, with transfer case:



                    The engine was delivered on a pallet, which was too wide for the engine hoist - 
                                    so it had to be cut down narrow enough to get the hoist around it.



With the pallet cut down, the engine is secured to the hoist. I always use straps - 
much easier to get the engine situated and easy to get around accessories.


                                                                  The bare bones....




And 10 minutes after, it's IN!


Time now for the radiator and cooling system, battery and wiring, 
carburetor and gas lines, transfer case and  driveline....


March 5, 2021

PRIMER TIME!!!

After many hundreds of hours on body work, the International S120 is finally getting a coat of high-build primer! The inside of the box is still a little on the rough side, but the outsides are 98% so it was time to get it primed.

First things first - clean up: anoterh 4+ hours were spent getting everything put away, sweeping up all the filler, vacuuming up all the filler dust and then blowing out every nook and crevice (twice).





And with everything cleaned up, it was finally time to buy and mix up the primer. 
At $200 a gallon I certainly don't want to waste any of it!


Mad Scientist at work!




First coat - you don't realize how much surface area there is on a vehicle until 
you have to go over every inch of it - both inside and out.


I use a metal gravity feed gun for primer:






Inners too!




Phew!!!  SIX solid hours of priming makes for one sore arm!! 
Although its a milestone, it only means the start of the (first) block-sanding stage....