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November 7, 2014

1968 Camaro re-assembly, Part 1



1968 Camaro, back from paint, being prepped for reassembly:


Most of the parts boxes arrived last week, including the entire interior assembly, front, rear and quarter glass pieces, a wicked gauge package, some very high end suspension pieces.....


and a LOT more!
















High spring-rate springs and fully adjustable Viking shocks will stiffen it up in the corners, giving it pro-touring ability:

















 And check out these stunning pieces from the gauge package - more views to come!





















A new grille set-up is also on its way - ensuring it's going to be show-level ready when done



Stay tuned to my blog for the entire build-up, as well as to my web site - for a TON more reading on all things restoration.

Via www.E-tekRestorations.googlepages.com 

October 31, 2014

Rides being tucked away for the winter....

Time to do a bunch of juggling - in order to get things moved around enough so I have room to work in the shop over the winter months - as well as get the daily drivers into the attached garage for the winter.


The '67 Galaxie went over to one of our other garages last week - and this week the '81 TA will follow. I always dump some gas saver in the tank, check the coolant levels so they're good to minus 40C and pull the batteries before putting them away. They keep just fine like that. 


The Boxster will go into the big shop, as I want to be able to play with it over the winter - if I get the chance!  Of course the Cooper is Mrs E-tek's driver, so it needs to stay n the attached garage for daily duty, along with our super tight, always right, 06 Dodge Van - lol!


What I really need, is something lie this, to store al the E-tek rides real nice and organized-lie!,







Via www.E-tekRestorations.googlepages.com !?

October 21, 2014

Lots going on in the E-tek RodShop!


Some ongoing projects - the Camaro is now painted, stay tuned for updates!





Via www.E-tekRestorations.googlepages.com !

September 27, 2014

I haven't blogged for a bit, taking a rare break from shop life, due to the 68 Camaro being in paint, all but the Datsun being complete drivers, and wanting to spend time with my growing family over the summer. As summer draws to a close though, there's maintenance to get done when you have a stable of cars and - with the family off to the family farm for the weekend - I got the chance to get a few things done on the E-fleet!

The Boxster I bought in May has been an absolute blast. If you love cars - and driving - you really cannot dislike the Porsche 986. It's fast, classy, drives great and looks even better. It's a car-lovers car. The battery was a bit low - which will happen when you don't drive a newer car enough to re-charge the loss due to "always on" electronics.




The 81 T/A has also been a blast this summer. Although its a straight up culture-bomb, an instant car-show wherever you go, its certainly not a drivers car like the Porsche. The T/A is for cruising, enjoying the sun, watching people react, hearing them yell: "Great ride!". It's been for sale - and almost sold this weekend - but when the buyers to-be pushed me on the price, I said "No way!" and took it back home. I'd sooner keep it than let it go too easily. Its become another strong part of the E-fleet!


                           In my attempt at styling our attached garage this year, I added this little display:

                           Now I just need to find replicas of all the cars I own in 'HotWheel' form!

Out in the shop once again, my tool box has become a shrine to everything (and everyone) I love:

 Mrs E-tek's Mini Cooper's brake indicator light wass on. Since I just did front pads last summer,  I summize it's due to the front or rear rotors being worn to the point that they are setting off the caliper sensors (damn sensors!). So, up on the hoist it went, with hydaulic jack lifting the front end -


Off came the front tyres, exposing the old rotors -


New Ate rotors - superior to stock in every way -




It took barely 20 minutes per side (and the requisite cussing!) and it was all done...


Nice looking parts too...




















And since that entire execise took less than an hour, I still had some time (and energy) to pull the pistons for the 390 out of the solvent washer, clean them up and begin pulling the rings off each:                                                                                                                                                                                                              




More soon!
In the meantime, check out my full website:
www.e-tekrestorations.googlepages.com


August 1, 2014

390 FE teardown - a TURBO mill for the Galaxie

This winter the E-tek Rod Shop will be a rarely seen "clean zone", meaning there will be no bodywork, sanding or painting going on and all the projects will either be in build-up phase (Camaro and 240Z), or clean-up and detailing phase (Porsche). So what better time to also tackle some of the mechanical projects I have in mind, in addition to putting together the projects that have - or will have -  fresh paint on them.

Two such mechanical projects are the flatead I have slated for the E-Rod  and the boosted 390 FE I have slated for the Galaxie. The key then will be in getting both mills ready to go the machinist. so that they\ll be back in the shop - ready to go together - before the snow flies.



390 FE teardown:  I bought this complete engine from a great guy whose name is Morris, who is also the SK modertator of the FordTruck.com site.

Overall, the engine looked reasonmably well-kept on the outside, with little evidence of leaks or exterior damage. It had spent a winter (or several) outside tho and in SK that can alwasy be an issue...so lets see what lies inside -


Above - little sludge insode the valve covers and a clean valve train was the first good signs.
       Below - all the parts removed looked healthy, with no visible wear marks or evidence of  heat damage.




 Above - though the parts were easily removed, the rotating assesmbly took somewhat more torque to move than normal
         Below - a ton of slack in the timing chain often signlals some obvious wear and likely high-milage



Below -  Most of the pistons where relatively free of carbon build up and the cylinder walls where smooth.  Some flash rust is evidence of moisture settling on the cylinder walls over years of storage, which would have caised the increase in rotating torque I saw ealier.


Below - bottom end looks clean as well, with previsuly numbered rod end caps,
 signifying at least one previous rebuild.


Once everything is off the block, the crank will be shipped off to my machinist, 
along with it's 30+ year older brother, the flathead, where it will undergo all the work deemed necessary to renew it for another term at the buisness end of a fine automobile!



Via www.E-tekRestorations.googlepages.com

July 30, 2014

1 year Update! POR15 vs RUST BULLET "Real World RUST PAINT Test"



July 31st, 2014 - the test plate I attached to the underside of my van was removed 364 days later, after having travelled approximately 45,000kms across the salted, sanded and gritty roads of Saskatchewan Canada, where temperatures ranged from +38C/100F to -40C/-40F and with constant speeds of up to 125kph/80mph for up to 5 hours at a stretch. While by no means a "scientific Study", it serves the purpose of showing how these paints perform in "real-world" conditions - when applied properly - and meeting or exceeding the abuse they would be exposed to in wheel-wells, frames, suspension components, trailers and other exposed, rusty or etched, metal surfaces it is intended for. Both paints also clain to be great for cement coating, but I have yet to have attempted their use on other substrates.

For details on how the test plate was prepared and the two brands of rust paints applied,
 please refer to my post of 1 year ago: Here.


Removing the plate:





And here it is, the even rustier control section is on the Left, the POR15 and Rust Bullet painted sections on the Right. The test peice and paints are still coated in a film of salt and road-grime.






Photo A - After an initial (dry) wipedown, the plate was placed on the original labelled board -



Photo B - Plate was flipped over, showing the underside  
after being cleaned with a water-dampened paper towel -


Discussion -
Both paints where largely intact and protective of the base metal underneath, suffering no major adhesion issues. However, both paints suffered minor damage and removal along the leading edge, an area subjected to direct contact from grit, stones, salt and more (top edge in top photo A, bottom edge in photo B).The uncoated section continued to rust, whereas only small sections of the leading edges of the coated sections did so. After wiping with a wet paper towel the sheen/shiny surface was returned and in good shape.

For comparison, here is the plate 1 year ago, when it was first prepared and painted with the two rust paints:


Overall impressions:
As promised by the manufacturers, both single-stage, air-cured epoxy paints did a very good job of protecting the metal substrate overall and sealing/protecting the vast majority of the coated surfaces. As mentioned above, both paints did suffer what I would term as a "minor" adhesion issue - damage/removal atthe leading edge, which would have taken a large amount of abuse from road debri and harsh weather conditions.

Due to the results of this test, I will certainly continue to recommend either paint and use them in my shop on both my own, and other peoples vehicles, with a good amount of confidence that they will remain on the substrates and protect them from deterioration in most conditions - when applied to surfaces that are either clean and rusty or clean and well-etched. They need a rough/porous surface to adhere to and many people report issues with adhesion when that has not been the case.

I would hazard a guess that "most conditions" these paints will be subjected to may or may not be as harsh as they were in this test, so your results may vary.

Thanks for reading along!.


                    Via www.E-tekRestorations.blogspot.com 



July 23, 2014

Preparing 68 Camaro for paint prep...

Rear panel and trunk lid alignment: the previous work looks like it was done without using sanding blocks, so we'll make sure it all gets straightened as it gets readied for paint.


The seams and joints where all sealed with PRO-seam sealer and a light coat of rockgaurd was sprayed on


Althought the gaps are even, you can see the body lines don't quite match up. This will be rectified by adjusting the doors, then installing and the latch and striker to ensure the doors line up with a smooth action on the latch.




 The lower quarters that were removed had a ton of filler in them in order to match them up to the rokcer panels. The new quarter was aligned so that only a skim of filler was required.


Attaching a panel is only job one. Aligning the surrounding panels and edges takes is what makes it all look right.




Don't forget to check out my website at www.E-tekRestorations.com !