POR's "Metal Prep" rust cure

POR-15 is a long standing rust treatment that I should get paid to support - but I don't! 

I have to pay the same (exorbitant!) prices of $75/Qt. everyone does. I say this because, over many years since first finding and using POR-15 (Paint Over Rust) system, as well as it's Metal Prep rust conversion preparation, I've tested it, seen it perform over several years in the field and used it in some very tough conditions - with incredible success.

The tailgate for this 1956 International Harvester was in great overall shape, albeit with a skiff of surface rust across most of its surface. Like the rest of the truck I sprayed a few heavy coats of Metal Ready and left it over night for the Phosphate to do its job in converting any rust - from Iron Oxite - to Iron Oxide.

After 1 days the phosphate dries to a whitish powder, turning rust (Iron Oxide) 

to an inert substance (Iron Oxite).

Still a little rust left after the first treatment, so a second is often needed:

A couple of holes that someone made for the licence plate had to be filled. Metal Ready is also supposed to make metal more conducive to welding, so I thought it a good time to get it done.

With a copper plate on one side I welded up the holes, then ground them down flush:

After a little work with the grinder, the holes were gone.

Next up some primer, a good sanding and it's off to paint.

Back to E-TEK's webpage HERE

Check out my YT Channel HERE! 

International Harvester Metal Work - Rust Prep

A key ingredient to my metal work involves liberal amounts of POR15 Metal Prep (nee Metal Ready). It's expensive at $65.00 a gallon, but the chemical reaction the phosphate creates is like nothing else. It turns rust (Iron Oxide) into a black inert substrate (Ferric phosphate) that can be then primed and painted.

Eastwood sent me something similar to try, but it doesn't work as well I found....

So, with the "liquid-money" in a spray bottle, I doused the rustiest part with it. You're probably

 asking - why didn't you sand blaster that part? Reason being that it was rusted really thin 

around the one side and so we could either blow it apart with the sandblaster, or actually 

build it up by turning the rust into ferric oxide.

 After it dries, you can see the white phosphate that is left behind, doing it's work for days to come.

Lots of hammer and Dolly work is next:

Plus some cutting welding:

Everything that was just surface rusted was spared the abusive sand blaster  but will be treated with the Metal Prep.The Gallon will go quick on this project, but what better insurance?