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June 24, 2017

1956 Binder post-paint reassembly

with the truck painted and the bed textured, it's time to start reassembly!

Of course you don't throw old, rusty, crusty and bashed up parts back on a fresh body....First off, let's tremember what the parts and pieces looked like when we started the project....

Pre teardown....



     Not too nice - but 60 years of wear, tear and age will do that!

Having done nearly 20 project over the same period of time, I've amassed a ton of paints and specialty coatings for detailing all the parts and pieces of various builds. 
Each has it's purpose and every part has a different sheen, tint and texture 
and its the matching of those that makes the final prroduct.

Before paint however, the parts need to be sanded, prepped and primered..

 Lots of POR15 to be applied to the undercarriage and attached parts! I've tried and tested quite a few different undercoating/rust paints ovwr the years and Ive never cime across a bettwr preparation. Its tough as nails, adheres extrememy well, looks like a factory chassis paint and is easy ri apply and touch up.

After paint, many of the threads need to be 'chased' so that the bolts that bolt them to thier siztwr parts will go back in:

Once painted, the contrast of ancillary parts against the fresh paint on tje vehicle always makes the vehicle 'pop'!

   Aftwr the major bits are detailed out, there's lots of chrome and other  bits to be dissassembled, prepped, painted and polished.

Again, don't forget where we were just a few months ago! Another few months will see her ready to run and  able to provide many years of fun and service!


June 11, 2017

1956 International Harvester 4x4 S120 is Painted!

After 2 years of on and off work, 100's of hours of metal work, filler, sanding, primer and more sanding, the International is painted! Take a look through the various stages of final sanding, sealer, base coat and clear....

 This color can look blue or green or anything in between, depending on your eyes, the screen and the available light!

With the clear it looks shiny and wet!

Before shot of grey sealer

Yestersay we sprayed the 'inners', including the textured box liner:

Which all had to be reverse-masked to spray the final topccoat....

   www.E-tekRestorations.googlepages.com !

June 8, 2017

POR's "Metal Prep" rust cure

POR-15 is a long standing rust treatment that I should get paid to support - but I don't! I have to pay the same (exorbitant!) prices of $75/Qt. everyone does. I say this because, over many years since first finding and using POR-15 (Paint Over Rust) system, as well as it's Metal Prep rust conversion preparation, I've tested it, seen it perform over several years in the field and used it in some very tough conditions.

The tailgate for this 1956 International Harvester was in great overall shape, albeit with a skiff of surface rust across most of its surface. Like the rest of the truck I sprayed a few heavy coats of Metal Ready and left it over night for the Phosphate to do its job.

After 1 days the phosphate dries to a whitish powder, turning rust (Iron Oxide) 
to an inert substance (Iron Oxite).

Still a little rust left after the first treatment, so a second is often needed:

A couple of holes that someone made for the licence plate had to be filled. Metal Ready is also supposed to make metal more conducive to welding, so I thought it a good time to get it done.

With a copper plate on one side I welded up the holes, then ground them down flush:

After a little work with the grinder, the holes were gone.

Next up some primer, a good sanding and it's off to paint.

June 5, 2017

Don't forget the tailgate!

We are ready to spray the tinted box liner and then reverse mask to spray the exterior - but had to put a hold on it to get the tailgate repaired, stripped and primed! Sometimes parts get missed and have to be sprayed afterwards, but this can result in slight color or texture differences - so I wanted to get it repaired and ready to spray with everything at once.

Below is the box ready to get the box liner application (fenders will be removed first!)

Here's the Bed Liner kit we'll be using, from ProForm. Kit comes with  tintable texture, 
hardener and a specific gun - not unlike the old "Body Schutz" guns we used to use 
to spray rubberized undercoating.

After pounding out the damaged edges of the Tailgate I laid it out on the cement floor to ensure it was straight and level. Took a little tweaking with some 2x4's under one side and some well-placed hits with the ball-peen hammer in the other, but it came out pretty damn close.

Once that was done the cracks and separated edges came together and I ran some weld across them:

The welds where then cleaned up and brought flush with the panel - 

After removing most of the original paint and as much of the surface rust as possible with the pneumatic stripper, I sprayed on a few coats of MetalReady, an anti-rust metal preparation product that turns rust (Iron Oxide) into a black inert substance (Iron Oxite). I've used it for years and even did some testing for the company (PRO15) a few years back (which can be searched for in my blog).

If you're as old as I am, you'll remember when MAACO advertised a $149 complete paint job. I'm not sure how they did that even back then, but I do recall paying about $300-$400 in materials to paint cars about 25 years ago....now, the materials you see below, almost everything needed to paint this truck, amounts to nearly $4000.00! A gallon of automotive base-paint alone is $450 and a gallon - and that's not counting your clear, hardeners, reducer, sealer, primers and - in this case - truck box liner. 

Other small pieces that will need to be painted with the truck's exterior are sitting on top of the grille shell, which will be painted last as it's white.

Once the color is finally on, we can get the fun part -  
cleaning the shop and detailing all the parts that make a vehicle a driver!