POR's "Metal Prep" rust cure

POR-15 is a long standing rust treatment that I should get paid to support - but I don't! 

I have to pay the same (exorbitant!) prices of $75/Qt. everyone does. I say this because, over many years since first finding and using POR-15 (Paint Over Rust) system, as well as it's Metal Prep rust conversion preparation, I've tested it, seen it perform over several years in the field and used it in some very tough conditions - with incredible success.

The tailgate for this 1956 International Harvester was in great overall shape, albeit with a skiff of surface rust across most of its surface. Like the rest of the truck I sprayed a few heavy coats of Metal Ready and left it over night for the Phosphate to do its job in converting any rust - from Iron Oxite - to Iron Oxide.

After 1 days the phosphate dries to a whitish powder, turning rust (Iron Oxide) 

to an inert substance (Iron Oxite).

Still a little rust left after the first treatment, so a second is often needed:

A couple of holes that someone made for the licence plate had to be filled. Metal Ready is also supposed to make metal more conducive to welding, so I thought it a good time to get it done.

With a copper plate on one side I welded up the holes, then ground them down flush:

After a little work with the grinder, the holes were gone.

Next up some primer, a good sanding and it's off to paint.

Back to E-TEK's webpage HERE

Check out my YT Channel HERE! 

Getting ready for primer....

After another long weekend of sanding, scraping, cleaning, repairs, removing final bits and pieces, we are getting very close to the milestone of a first high-build primer coat. 

Everything has been completely stripped, rust-treated and  rust-proofed. After primer we'll rust proof the inside of all panels with either Rust-Bullet or POR-15 products and spray a protective Dura-guard coating which decreases sound and vibration making for less sound transfer and a quieter ride.

Inside the cab we still have the heater and final dash panel to remove for paint and rebuild:

These knobs are being a MAJOR PITA!! They have a tiny hole on one side that obviously has a release mechanism inside, but I have yet to figure it out!! more research needed!

The roof panel has this discoloration that appears to be baked-though primer, not rust. None-the-less we'll sand it down, treat it with POR-15 and paint it to be sure it's right.

                     Teaching the next generation of car builder, much like my Dad taught me!

 Grille and undersides of hood sanded down to metal where required and rust-treated several times over - a level you'll never see done in a for-profit body-shop!

Even pieces like the trasn cover get scraped and treated  - that's QUALITY workmanship!  :)

Also, the interior kick-panel, which holds the gas pedal assembly, was rusted through on one side and needed a lot of work throughout. I cut and welded in a piece on one side, smoothed out the rest and we'll rust-board, then gravel guard the entire thing for durability.

The engine is also on the agenda as we get closer to paint. Time to assess all the parts, measure the bores, check the lash and top end and see if we can't run it up on the bench.

Unfortunately, I made this potentially problematic discovery as I was removing the carb... a missing frost plug. This could mean it had a freezing issue at some point in its past many years of sitting idle. Now the question becomes: still go ahead with the bench start and see what happens - or go straight to full disassembly to have the block magnafluxed. 

Or....pull the head off and Magnaflux the top end of the block - 

which is likely the best half-way measure at this point.

 Heater assembly was removed and will be gone-though, tested and detailed. It's these parts that make the entire project a show-stopper, inside and out!

After removing the heater core I sanded it down and disassembled it. I'll take the core in for a pressure test and then re-assemble it for paint.

Based on the shape of these duct-pipes, the heater hasn't done much good for a long while!

                                                              Stay tuned for more!

Back to E-TEK's webpage HERE

Check out my YT Channel HERE! 

E-tek's REAL WORLD RUST PAINT COMPARISON: Test Panel installation

How's this for a "Real World" test?

My Dodge Caravan may not be the coolest (OK, maybe its the LEAST coolest) car to grace this blog, but its a MULE - in this case, its our test mule!

Remember the rusted panel that was painstakingly prepped and painted with both POR15 and Rust Bullet Rust paints? If not, check HERE. If so, continue on!

The panel was secured to the bottom of the Dodge Caravan:

In this position the panel - and rust paints - will be exposed to some of the MOST SEVERE conditions known to man. This van will be driven about 30,000kms (12,000 miles) across the highways of Northern Saskatchewan through some of the most severe climates on earth - including temperatures that can dip to minus 40 (Celsius or Fahrenheit - as they meet at that temperature). lots of snow, slush. salts of all kinds and plenty of sand and gravel.

So really - lets FINALLY see who's Rust Paint comes out on top!

ONE YAR TEST UPDATE:  August 1 2015:  See it HERE