Can your rust paint "WELD" the lid to the can??

After using some Rust Bullet on the inner fenders of the 40Ford a couple months back, I closed the can back up, forgetting how some other similar products I've used before had a tendency to stick (read: WELD) the lid to the can!

Well sure enough, the RustBullet sticks SO WELL and dries SO TOUGH, that the lid was literally welded to the can - and no amount of prying was going to separate the two!

So.... I highly recommend you take precautions to either not to get ANY of the RustBullet product between the can and a lid (as per their FAQ's and application instructions), or you can expect the above result!  As well, there are a few common practices that will help to avoid this, including placing a barrier between the can and lid, like a piece of thin plastic (Saran Wrap, thin bag, etc), or, transferring the remaining product to a glass jar just large enough so as to minimize the amount of air stored within, as well as with a good, airtight lid.

But, since I didn't heed these recommendations, I had to revert to plan C: poking a hole in the lid to pour out what I needed....

The can can be sealed with some duct tape until you are done the job, with the remainder then transferred to a glass or plastic container and kept in a cool spot until needed again.

Now although you may think it a hassle to have a product that does this, it certainly proves RustBullet's power to STICK to metal so well - and dry so hard - that it should be considered a KEY element of your rust-proofing arsenal. It's definitely earning an important place in mine!

E-tek's REAL WORLD RUST PAINT COMPARISON: Test Panel installation

How's this for a "Real World" test?

My Dodge Caravan may not be the coolest (OK, maybe its the LEAST coolest) car to grace this blog, but its a MULE - in this case, its our test mule!

Remember the rusted panel that was painstakingly prepped and painted with both POR15 and Rust Bullet Rust paints? If not, check HERE. If so, continue on!

The panel was secured to the bottom of the Dodge Caravan:

In this position the panel - and rust paints - will be exposed to some of the MOST SEVERE conditions known to man. This van will be driven about 30,000kms (12,000 miles) across the highways of Northern Saskatchewan through some of the most severe climates on earth - including temperatures that can dip to minus 40 (Celsius or Fahrenheit - as they meet at that temperature). lots of snow, slush. salts of all kinds and plenty of sand and gravel.

So really - lets FINALLY see who's Rust Paint comes out on top!

ONE YAR TEST UPDATE:  August 1 2015:  See it HERE

E-tek's Real-World Rust Preventative Paint comparison Test

After applying Rust Bullet to those 40 Ford inner fenders, I got to thinking that it'd be a good exercise to compare it to my current go-to rust rust-preventative paint, POR15, which I've previously reviewed on my site, www. E-tekRestorations.com, so a side-by-side long-term (12 month), real-world comparison with the newest rust preventative product in my shop seemed in order!

The substrate being used is an inner door frame support section with fairly even mild to moderate surface rust after being exposed to the elements for a couple of years in my metal bin.

POR15 and Rust Bullet were both brushed onto the test piece, directly over the rust, front and back, as per the manufacturers recommendations: one coat for POR15 and 2 coats for Rust Bullet. 

A clean brush and container was used for each product and the temperature and humidity were within manufacturers recommended ranges for best application. 

I affixed the metal to a white board and labelled everything to record the exercise, then I removed it and have placed it outside, where it will remain for the next 30 days. To test further the resiliency of the products, the test piece will be affixed to the bottom of my work vehicle for the winter season!
I do a lot of driving, in all conditions and in all seasons -  in central Canada - so a more "real-world" test I cannot imagine. The paints will be subjected to temperatures as low as minus 40C/40F, road dirt and grime, road salt mixtures and sand. As both sides of the panel were coated, we'll also get a good idea of exposed vs. protected metal surfaces.

This close-up shot is a little deceiving here but in reality both products looked very similar as they were drying - with similar raised bumps over the surface - which I'm assuming is due to the products outgassing while drying. 

 An hour after application,the two products had a similar sheen, with the POR15 drying slightly more matte (flat) and the Rust Bullet ever so slightly shinier.The differences were negligible though and both closely match the OEM black used by factories on frame and engine compartment components. Should a very specific color be required, both products can be topcoated with other products readily available.

Stay tuned for us attaching the test panel to my daily driver 
and updates throughout the next 12 months!

 TEST RESULTS AVAILABLE NOW! See them HERE!