1940 Ford Rod: dems da brakes

Got the rear brakes sorted out and ran the e-brake cables to their respective locations in order to meet up with the e-brake handle and cable up front.

 The undersides of the Rod are in excellent shape, all of the metal having been restored  some time ago.

Locating an e-brake cable clip in the floor pan -

Up front I opened up a hole for the forward e-cable, then put a pry-bar in it and bend the frame wall such that the cable would go in at an angle where it would more easily run along the rail.

Next up was installing the gas pedal and then installing the LOKAR throttle cable system
.

With the pedal mounted in a spot that allowed full travel, I then attached it to the throttle cable end -

then cut both the outer sheath and inner cable and  attached it all to the throttle body linkage up front.

An issue we need to deal with is the angle that the steering linkages are at.  As can be seen below, the column is currently mounted so that the lower-most knuckles are at too-severe an angle, which could lead to binding. There's two possible fixes for this: try to find some block-hugger style headers so that the linkages could be moved inwards reducing the connection angle or, move the lower end of the steering column further outboard thus bringing it more in-line with the steering box.

 Stay tuned to see how it turns out!

Check back weekly for lots of updates!

       Don't forget to check out the website at 

www.E-tekRestorations.com ! 

1940 Ford Custom Rod - starting line

Got started on the 1940 Ford 5.0L today!

As this new project came with a multitude of boxes filled with new, used and 'extra' parts, my first task was to go through everything and organize the parts it into interior, engine and body so I could find what I needed as I work on each area. The owner has also purchased most of the custom parts required for power doors, power windows, the A/C system and interior pieces including gauges, so my task is clear: figure out how it all goes together - and build it! ;)

There are also a lot of original parts that will need restoration - 

including window frames and the headlight bucket assemblies.

 

First up was sorting out the engine wiring harness and learning what goes where. Second was getting some of the parts mounted and out of the way:



Next came the installation of the the A/C pump on the bracket the owner had previously fabbed up. Below are the 3 original aluminum brackets the new one will replace, making it a much cleaner system.

Here's the bracket made by the owner, which re-locates the AC pump higher up and away from the inner fender, where there was little room for it. Rather than cut the inner fender, this will put the A/C pump up where there is lots of room given the tall hood on the '40 Ford.

And here's everything mocked up. The belt may need to be re-sized, but I'll wait until the tensioner is properly located and the other belt is on before getting a final measurement.

 Looking at the bottom end, I noted the pan is very close - and maybe touching - the cross member. I'll keep an eye on this as we move forward and it may come down to notching either the x-member or the pan.

 Stay tuned!

Don't forget to check out the website at www.E-tekRestorations.com !

Time to clean up the driver

Did some clean-up on the daily drivers today, including a nice detail on Mrs E-tek's Mini Cooper  - 

and an ultra detail on my Caravan. I know - most people hate the Mini-Van, but these are truly the most utilitarian The decision to clean it up came after I broke the mirror in a parking garage last week:

Here it is - the entire side was broken off (ooops). I glued in the few pieces I picked up and made the rest out of body filler. After some sanding, a couple more coats of filler, more sanding and some primer, I painted it with trim-black.

All the wheels were showing their age (it's an '06), so they were painted with Duplicolor's wheel paint,
then clear-coated. Total factory-look.

                      The wipers and mud-guards were painted with Duplicolor's trim black.

While that was all drying, I did a little more work on the 240Z. After welding up the drivers side rail I decided more of the old rail should come off,

I bent up a piece on the brake and worked it into shape:

I purchased this chisel-shaping set last week at Princess Auto. It's awesome. It has many different heads that will be really useful in shaping and they just pop in and out with a spring-lock. Great handle and hand protection too. Totally could have used this set over the years!!

Here's the Caravan after unmasking and cleaning. Hope to get another few years out of it!

Don't forget to check out the website at www.E-tekRestorations.com !

Newest project at E-tek: 1940 Ford Rod

The newest project to grace the  E-tek "Hot Rod" Shop" - 

A 1940 Ford "Custom Rod", owned by a very nice and capable gentleman who got all the major peices together but - as often happens - couldn't find enough time in the day to get 'er done! This is where I come in....

Like most of the projects I work on, they come in bits pieces....

                                            ......and more bits and pieces.....

The owner showing me some of the shiny bits up front - it's gonna be a beauty!

                                            Check back often - this ones gonna be a DOOZY!


                          Don't forget to check out the website at www.E-tekRestorations.com !  

6Volt to 12V system How To

I was searching "6Volt conversions" and came across this AWESOME site! It's all basic and easy How To, written by a guy who's done it himself. Check it out!

Hot Rod How To

Don't forget to check out the website at www.E-tekRestorations.com !

Cool garage!!

After a day of golf last week I drove by a new subdivision and this house caught my eye - it has a drive-thru garage with roll-up doors at either end, a lift and room to work and store stuff.

The large house caught my eye, then I saw the semi-transparent roll-up doors - of which the open side showed though to the other end where there was another roll-up door. I took a peak inside and called out but no-one answered, so I knocked on the front door and asked the very lovely wife if I could take a peek. She told me it was her husbands baby (of course) and he was a farmer and broker - sounds like a good gig!

Above is from the inside looking out, under the lift.

Nice storage - all in workshop red.

 Below - just some of the toys that were at the ready. 

There was also a tricked out ATV on the lift and more bikes in another area.

Thanks to the lovely Mrs and her cool husband in Warman, SK!

Don't forget to check out the website at www.E-tekRestorations.com !  

My son Colton and I decided to try our hand at a few "How - to" videos. This is his first attempt at making videos:

E-tek Restoration: 67 Cougar Metal Work 1

E-tek Restorations: 67 Cougar Metalwork 2

E-tek Restorations: 67 Cougar Metalwork 3

Tell us what you think!



 Don't forget to check out the website at www.E-tekRestorations.com !

IMG-20120730-00073.jpg

 I've found over time that the topic of welding wires can get confusing, but like many things, trial and error - and advice from others - is often the way to success. MIG wire can be purchased from cheapo-tool outlets like PrincessAuto and Harbour Freight, industrial application places like Acklands, as well as welding-sepcific stores like Cannox. After years of buying various wires, I've settled on ESAB or Lincoln brands, which are made by welding-specific companies and not sold in the cheapo tool outlets. Although all the part and classification numbers may be the same, the higher-end wires seem to flow better, require less Amperage to burn and thus don't burn through as easily and weld better over small metal imperfections like rust and paint. They generally come in 5 and 12 lb spools, so give them a try if you haven't.

Welding up the final piece of the Cougar puzzle!

 

This section of the Cougar was hit hard and repaired poorly - so it fell to me to cut away the worst of it and then make it whole again. After about 20 hours of fabricating and welding, the piece fit well and matched up to the quarter extension that bolts to it:

 Don't forget to check out the website at www.E-tekRestorations.com !  

 I've found over time that the topic of welding wires can get confusing, but like many things, trial and error - and advice from others - is often the way to success. MIG wire can be purchased from cheapo-tool outlets like PrincessAuto and Harbour Freight, industrial application places like Acklands, as well as welding-sepcific stores like Cannox. After years of buying various wires, I've settled on ESAB or Lincoln brands, which are made by welding-specific companies and not sold in the cheapo tool outlets. Although all the part and classification numbers may be the same, the higher-end wires seem to flow better, require less Amperage to burn and thus don't burn through as easily and weld better over small metal imperfections like rust and paint. They generally come in 5 and 12 lb spools, so give them a try if you haven't.

Welding up the final piece of the Cougar puzzle!

 

This section of the Cougar was hit hard and repaired poorly - so it fell to me to cut away the worst of it and then make it whole again. After about 20 hours of fabricating and welding, the piece fit well and matched up to the quarter extension that bolts to it:

 Don't forget to check out the website at www.E-tekRestorations.com !