fb icon

fb icon
Follow E-tek on fb!

December 26, 2011

Lots to do!

Drove back from the in-laws farm where the family continues there Christmas traditions: eating, visiting, playing, snowmobiling, walks in the snow.....

Me? I'm back in the shop - finishing the Chevrolet for the Crozon's, building a wall-closet ironing board as part of Mrs E-tek's Christmas gifts and maybe, just maybe, doing some work on my Galaxie!

Put all the fender braces on the Chevrolet. Much harder than I thought it'd be too. Once I figured which brace went where, I had to drill holes that disappeared when new metal was welded in, then weld up on that broke when remvoed:







Then I finished tearing down the FE, which I bought as a 390 but turned out to be a 330....oh well, on the bright side it's in incredibly good shape!


Which is MUCH more than I can say for the SECOND early-style flathead block I bought as a donor for my 46 Merc truck...the first one had BADLY rusted deck faces and this one has holes in it where a piston let go of the crank. Talk about buyer beware....or, don't buy blocks in the dark!




Don't forget to check out the website at www.E-tekRestorations.com !

Merry Christmas to all!

MERRY CHRISTMAS to everyone!!!!!
I hope everyone got what they want this year or, at the very least, has a decent day - because compared to so many people, in so many parts of the world, a decent day for us is a gift so many people are wishing for.

I got 'almost' everything I wished for this year: Time with my family, the health of (most) of those around me, the means to give my family the gifts they wanted, and the continued Love of those around me. I say I "almost" got everything I wanted because ever year I still, niavely, wish for my son Colby to "get better"....


December 23, 2011

Lots more details on the 56 Chevrolet tied up today:

First up, back to this trim piece that fills the space between the dash and windshield. This is the 3rd time at it, trying different clips, different methods to make it look right....and this time, adjusting the clip receptors to hold the filler trim a little more evenly. Sometimes getting things to look right can be a major PITA!! ;)



Next, I needed to remove the front bumper gain, to get the front plate bracket bolted in behind it:




Of course once I got the bolts out I decided they too could be spruced up a notch, so I resprayed, then cleared them.


I said earlier that one of my favourite parts of a build is the application of the decals at the end. As much as I want to do them earlier, I wait until it's nearly out the door, so they stay perfect looking. The decals make the vehicle look dealership fresh - like the day it was purchased.

Above: Oil filter decal is clear so the writing looks painted on.
                                     Below: The oil breather cap on the valve cover. Behind it you can see the valve cover decal  - I need to double check whether it goes on the top or side....


Air cleaner decal:

Early on, a decision was made to buy the Plain-Jane tailgate, without the Chevrolet insignia. It was a for a variety of reasons, owing mostly to availability and cost, so I decided to buy and apply the CHEVROLET decal and see if that was a decent compromise.


After measuring and centering, I applied the letters, each one separately.



As the day winded down I decided to once again run the engine and check the dwell and timing. I can't say it enough -  this was the MOST DIFFICULT  starting rebuild I have ever come across! The owners sent the long block out for a full rebuild so I have no clue as to what - or if - that has anything to do with it at first. The fogging agent they used was tough to burn off for sure, but that was only part of the problems encountered!
Today however, the truck fires up and now idles nicely at just over 700 RPM. The dwell is a little shy, at 22, so I'll have to adjust that up a titch. The carb now works well - after a rebuild and a re-look. And the fuel pump pumps fuel, but oddly the filter has very little fuel going through it. Normally, these plastic filters look half full, but with this one I can barely see fuel going through it. The oddities of General Motors products! Most importantly, the engine produces good oil pressure and it registers nicely on the original oil-fed gauge.

Next week - after Christmas with the family - I'll be back at some electrical work under the dash and a final polish. Delivery is December 30th!











Don't forget to check out the website at www.E-tekRestorations.com !  

December 22, 2011

Tearing down Ford 390FE engine

I bought this 1967 Ford 390FE engine, which I had to pull out of a Camper Special Truck, to rebuild and add either a turbo or supercharger set-up and then stuff it into my 1967 Galaxie 500XL. The Galaxie has it's original 390FE mill still and - although it runs good  - is getting a little long in the tooth....


Today I started on the tear down:


The engine's internals turned out to be in VERY good shape. Barely any cylinder ridge, all the bearings where nice, no scratches on any journals - I mean, it barely needed a tear down - but how do you know? You don't - so you do the tear down, check all the parts, do a full cleanup and rebuild it even better than it was....



Of course the 56 Chevrolet is still here, and there's a few minor items left before I can deliver it. This being winter - and the owners not really having anywhere to store it yet - I can take some time to get these items done. Today I detailed the wheels and tires:


In addition to touching up the wheels with some flat black, I cleaned the tires. For the white wall stripe I used Wax and grease remover, which is a light solvent and takes an grease and grime off, then some Spray 9, to make them shiny white. For the black portions I used WD40! This stuff has thousands of uses and leaves a perfect sheen to tires. I see I forgot to take a photo of the entire thing, but will tomorrow.

Lastly, I ran it up again and did some more tuning. This time though I found my exhaust ducting and ran it out the door. You can see that it's nothing more than flexible dryer ducting. It's not very durable, but if you take care of it, it'll last a while - and at $10 for 6 feet, I can buy a lot for what a length of real shop rubber exhaust hose costs, which is about $200. Still, much better than filling the shop with fumes then running it out the wall fan.



Don't forget to check out the website at www.E-tekRestorations.com for lots of "How-To" and some new photo's of Mrs E-tek!  ;)

December 20, 2011

Next up at the E-tek compound......

A lthough the 56 Chevrolet truck still has a few days of finishing work before the keys can be truly handed over to the owners, I've already been thinking about and lining up my own projects, as well as a special purchase that will help me move some of my mechanical skills into the 21st Century!

First, a quick look at some projects already underway at #E-tekRestorations! 




Above: a 1971 Datsun 240Z on the rotisserie. This was originally purchased as the spare/parts car for E-tek Racing's IP2 effort that Mrs.E-tek (Chili) raced out of Westwood in Vancouver, BC

Above: I pulled this Ford 390FE Engine from a 1967 Camper Special. It'll make up the base for a twin-turbo engine I'm building for our '67 Galaxie 500XL Convertible.


The Galaxie currently has a 390-2bbl which MAYBE maxes out 250HP. With a full rebuild, bumping the compression closer to 9.5, a dual plane intake, 4 barrel carb and a power-adder, I would hope to net something closer to 450, maybe even 500HP.





 Out at the farm, my father-in-law has a 351Windsor engine just waiting to be saved, as well as this 38 Ford truck shell. Not really restoration material, it does however lend itself to a rodders dream effort.



If the frame is solid we can use it, otherwise we'll just build a frame from 2x4 tubing and cut the shell down to look the part. Something along these lines. The term "Rat-Rod" is thrown around a lot, but well built examples aren't much different than the "rods" that graces the tracks and road ways of the 40's and 50's.

Lastly, and certainly way out of the box around here, I'll be picking up this 2003 Porsche Boxster S come spring. As much as I love classics, big engines and muscle, I also love the intricacies of driving,  the technical highs of well-made 21st century marquees. I have always wanted to do some to hone my driving skills with racing and auto crossing and the Boxster S is a nimble, sure-footed and hard-braking example of German technocracy. As well, I'll be able to move m mechanical skills into the future by learning more about the newer hardware and software out there.



Of course, it won't hurt to have something that can compete with Mrs. E-tek's Mini Cooper, especially since she wants me to put in the smaller pulley kit that increases boost from her supercharger 17%!

December 18, 2011

Like Father, Like Son....

My 8 year old son Colt has been into LEGO for years now. But these aren't the (boring) blocks we all used as kids - now LEGO comes in more pieces and sets than Detroit uses to build their fleets! Not to mention the characters: including LEGO StarWars people of every iteration, LEGO Pirates of the Caribbean, LEGO Ferrari sets, there's hundreds and the boy has gotten many for birthdays, Christmases and many purchased using his own allowance.

Of course in these days of cross marketing, there are also LEGO Video Games for the various consoles. We have aWii and the kid has had the LEGO StarWars Game for a while, then got the newest LEGO Batman game. Interestingly though, LEGO doesn't make the Batman characters yet - but that doesn't stop a creative mind!

So last week Colt asked me for my shop SHARPE markers. He went out and got a few, then made himself busy upstairs. A little while later, he showed me his new LEGO Batman and Robin Mini-figures. Then again today, he called me to come see his latest creations:





The green one, well none other than the Riddler. The white one? Two-Face....and the blue one is Mr Freeze. Later he made Poison Ivy and some other villains I don't know.  One thing I do know - the new world is full of incredible new jobs that kids like Colt will be able to chase. It's a far cry from Policeman, Fireman or Tradesman.....

Don't forget to check out the website at www.E-tekRestorations.com !

December 17, 2011

Hot Rod TV just RUINED Corky Coker for me! (See UPDATE below post!)

At the E-tek household, Saturday mornings generally start with several cups of Java, while my son Colton and I watch car shows. Powerblock TV, Two Guys Garage (I still miss Sam Memolo!) and Hot Rod TV, a TV show from the guys behind HotRod Magazine, every cool-car guys bible.


This morning I'm watching what could have been an awesome idea for a show, a special, heck I'd even pay $10 to see it as a movie. The idea was to have a host cruise around looking for "barn-finds" - cool old iron hiding out in sheds, garages and shops across, in this case, the south. A great idea for a show for sure because every car guy has heard about - and dreams of  - coming of across a rare model that was parked long ago and can be hauled home and returned to it's original glory.

The host for this particular iteration of "Barn Finds TV" was none other than Corkey Coker, the multi-millionaire son of Harold Coker who started re-manufacturing old-style tires from his BF Goodrich tire store for the masses of cars being restored around the world. Over the years I've read a lot about Corky, as HotRod Magazine and other print media have featured him in many articles owing to his interest in all things automotive.



 In print Corky rocks, with his bushy, curled under moustache and his penchant for finding, restoring and using classic cars of every size, shape and vintage. The millions he's skimmed off the profits of Coker Tire has also allowed him a lifestyle coveted by car-guys around the globe and when I see or read about people like that, there's always a part of me that hopes the guys is a decent sort, someone who knows how lucky he is and cares about the cars and people involved and maybe, just maybe, treats them with one-tenth the respect that people deserve to be treated, even if they don't travel in the concours de'elegance crowd of a Corky Coker.

On TV however, the way someone is portrayed - due largely to editing - can make or break the show and, of course, the host or person being featured. The way some editor decides to cut the shots, the things the get  people say and the decisions as to what makes it into the final edit can seriously affect the personalities featured. In this case that personality  was Corky Coker and that 20 minutes was enough to make him look like a cheap, grind you for $500, self-serving southern dufus!

The guy was so brutally portrayed, that that one show was enough to make me hate the guy! Poor rich bastard. Now I'm sure Corky Coker, or the editors of HotRod TV, didn't mean to make him look like the kind of guy that grinds you for $200 on a $10,000 car while holding $50 grand in his wallet, but that's what happened!  And it's amazing to me that they - or anyone involved in the production of this episode - wouldn't have seen that having some rich guy cruise around finding rare old metal that any of us would beg, borrow and maybe even trade our kids for, then grind the owners down from $7500 to $6700 would be good for the guys persona! Poor rich bastard indeed.


*************************************************************************
Well, so much for always giving people the benefit of the doubt (and blaming editors!).....

I posted thisblog  entry on www.GarageJournal.com and not 2 minutes later another member posted a link to www.Hotrodders.com (excellent site) where they explain how Corky made himself out to be even (much) worse than he was portrayed on the HotRod TV episode! My aplogied to the editors of HR-TV!!!

Maybe Corky Coker really is "like that"!
Weird.

Don't forget to check out the website at www.E-tekRestorations.com ! 

December 16, 2011

There sure is a LOT to do when it looks finished!

If you've been following, you'll know I called it nearly finished some time back.... I mean, it LOOKS done - right?

Even the lights work!

Of course if you've been following you'd also know we spent a TON of time troubleshooting the fuel system to get it running. It was like one of those Troubleshooting Tests where they hide some problem and you try to start it up.... Well, our "hidden" issue was a kink in the flex line from the tank line to the frame line - about 4" long and tucked up under the cab. So about 15 hours later I finally thought to check it. Kinked like a folding table. So I rebent and adjsuted the steel lines and relieved the pressure on the flex line portion. Fuel is now flowing!

Regardless, it still needed the carb to be rebuilt. And it needed a new fuel pump. Really, it needed.....a  ton of LOVE I guess! So after all that spilled gas and wrenching, it was time to re-clean all the components that got all that love and attention.! First up was re-applying the Golden Cad from Eastwood, which does a good job re-creating the cadmium plating carbs got.



Dropped it back on - all tuned and measured, the floats now set and finally - had it running! Can you tell it's running at about 2500 rpm in this pic?


Now here's where the "issues" start appearing.... A while back, when I was doing the rear brakes, I got around to the front and noticed when I removed the Left Front wheel and drum that the shoes where new-ish and the brake cylinder looked good. the owners son happened to be there, so I asked if I should leave them as is and he said "yes", so I did...... You KNOW where this is going.... ;(


So, when working under the truck a few days back, we noticed brake fluid coming from the  RIGHT front wheel. Now that the thing is running I decided to pull it and see...and sure enough the brake cylinder was gushing fluid . Another thing that needs resto and shoulda been done! Now it is. Once the wheel went back on, I put a light coat of semi-gloss on the wheel and left it overnight to dry. Perfection. So, that leaves the LEFT front corner the ONLY bit on the entire truck that wasn't completely restored. That'll happen tomorrow for sure.

What else needs doing you ask? Well, the rear signal lights, turn signals, horn and more are all on that steering column harness that was so unceremoniously cut off - so I'll try to find one of those connectors. Once the engine gets run up you find a lot of leaks, and while we dealt with most, there's still a couple pesky ones - one at the heater core (I hope it's not the core itself...), so I'll deal with those. Bought new window cranks- that's take a few minutes. As well, the front licence plate holder has to go under the bumper - so I have to remove the entire bumper to get that item on. a bunch of other wiring to - the accessory block and heater fan come to mind.

Once all that is complete, I'll machine polish it, detail it and then hand the keys over to the owner. I'm sure I'll be sad to see it go.



Don't forget to check out the website at www.E-tekRestorations.com ! Special thanks to www.Eastwood.com and www.CarCraft.com !

December 15, 2011

Is it the fuel pump? The carb? Floats? Lines? Filter?

As you'll know if you've been following along, we've spent several days (and many hours)trying to get the beautiful '56 Chevy running - and running properly. Being a scientific thinker and understanding the value of troubleshooting, I have been though every system on the truck in order that it would run as it should. After many different attempts at troubleshooting, we finally got it running, reasonably well, but only while introducing fuel through the carb top.

After rebuilding the carb, trying it with and without the filter, pushing air through the lines, checking the fuel pick up and everything else, it was till only pushing a small amount of fuel out of the pump - and not enough to reach the carb! This is where my love of cars turns into a seething hatred for all things GM!
So what the hell? I know a fuel pump puts out 3-5 psi, so more than a dribble should come out - right?! Right! The odd thing was that when we hooked up a vacuum to the line, we where able to get gas to flow fairly easily.

Then, the proverbial light bulb! There's a short flex-line between the cab and frame lines and it's really the only part that hadn't been removed and checked. So up she went on the BendPak. Sure enough, it didn't even take a second to see that the GD piece was kinked. BAM. Major issue found!



So I bend the lines until the pressure was relieved on the flex-line portion and went back to the engine bay to see what would happen....sure enough, the fuel is now POURING out of that line and into the pump. But even so, it still wouldn't pump all that hard through the old pump. So back on went the new pump, this time: success, now THAT'S what 3-5psi looks like!
But even so, it still ran and bogged as though it wasn't getting enough fuel into the float bowls. So off the carb came for the THIRD time! And here's what I saw:




The float drop measurement - which I just checked when I rebuilt the carb last week - should be 1 3/4". It was more like 2 1/4"! So, after setting it the first time I must have bent it when I opened it up to check the gasket placement....sometimes you can't win for loosing!

To be PERFECTLY HONEST, I have NEVER run into a situation like this in 35 years working on cars. After you learn COMPRESSION-TIMING-SPARK-FUEL things normally move along.

Sure, sometimes you have to troubleshoot every system on your way to get it running, but this thing has been absolutely backbreaking!! It's also been burdensome, exhausting, fatiguing, formidable, grueling, harsh, heavylaborious, murderous, no picnic, onerous, painful, punishing, rigorous, rough, severe, strenuous, taxing, tiring, toilsome, tough, troublesome, trying, uphill. I can't say it any clearer than that!!

Tomorrow, I'll put the carb back together and HOPEFULLY can get this thing moving!!!
Don't forget to check out the website at www.E-tekRestorations.com !

December 13, 2011

Here are the replies and comments from several site I posted these tests on:

From Garage Journal.com


From theoldwizard:
"I have read on several forums that POR15 will not adhere to new metal.  I have no idea what type of metal prep, if any, was done."

It definitely DOES NOT adhere well to new, SMOOTH metal. It needs something to bite into, either surface rust, or properly prepared new metal. You can either sand it with 80 on the DA, grind it, or use Metal Ready/MetalPRep/OSPHO, etc. . They do the job by roughening up the metal enough so that the POR15 can bind. It also doesn't stick to previously painted surfaces without proper prep either.

From kc-steve:
"Is there a recommended time limit before sanding POR-15? Due to the fact that I brush it on, I'd rather try and smooth it out before applying primer and paint."

It does a great job or self-levelling itself, especially if you apply thin coats. If you are going to top-coat with primer or paint, either do so after it's dr but before 24 hours, or  - if you waited longer - use their Tie-Coat primer to tie the two products together.

From widerberg:
"Forgot to say, thanks, E-tek! You got me thinking about these products again.Have you done anything with internal (cavity) rust proofing/preventing? I was going to go with Waxoyl (Waxoyl 120-4) for the inside of my Landy's frame, but cheaped out and bought a couple aerosol cans of Eastwood's similar product instead."

I used Eastwood's Internal Frame Coating and wrote it up on my web site. It seems like it would do the intended job of repelling mositure, since it's an oil/wax substance. I did like the applicator they've come up with - it has a long tube and a broadcast tip so you can get it all the way into enclosed areas like frames and body channels. I haven't looked at long-term results yet through.

From ElectroLight:
"I used Eastwood's Rust Encapsulator on my truck frame (bought a kit) and I'm not impressed.  Not long afterward, the rust started to return.  The rest of the Eastwood products found their way to the trash can, I will use POR15 from now on..."
Thanks for adding your experience.

From widerberg:
"I don't want to hijack the thread, but in the case of my frame, I am going to have it blasted, but wanted to POR-15 or Rust Encapsulate it also. POR-15, especially, I've heard creates a super hard shell, which I like the sound of. Mostly, I'm just going for overkill here in case any microscopic traces of rust survive media blasting."

My preferred method for frames and body panel undersides is just that: sandblast, wipe down with a wax&grease remover and apply 2 coats of POR15, each applied thinly by brush and within 8 -16 hours of eachother.

From the Stovebolt Forums:

"you don't have to sell me on Por15. It's been my drug of choice for years.
I had to grind some off the chassis to weld a bracket for the power steering box on my panel. While I'll admit I used a flap-disk on it I could still tell its some tough stuff. Nuff said!."

From MP&C:
"In using POR as a stand-alone product, painted over slight surface rust as you described, it was on there as if it had been powdercoated. Smacked it with a screwdriver a couple times, didn't even leave a mark. On another occasion, we had some bare metal with some factory finish paint (from mid 50's) next to it, and the POR was used to cover both surfaces (for consistency). After curing, the POR peeled off in sheets from the painted surface."

VERY IMPORTANT!

Number ONE most important thing about POR15 is that it NEEDS soemthing to bite to. Rust is perfect, but if you want to coat new metal or previously painted surfaces, you have to prepare them properly. New metal can be prepped with their Metal Prep, which gives it a slight etch, or it can be sanded with 80 on the DA, or hit with the grinder (though I'd still go over with the DA to make sure it's evenly scuffed). Painted suraces have to be well-sanded. I'd go with 320.

Don't forget to check out the website at www.E-tekRestorations.com !  

December 12, 2011

POR15 vs Zero Rust and Eastwood's Rust Encapulator - NO CONTEST!

A couple years back I made some comments on various websites whereby I said that I couldn't see HOW a spray-can product (such as Zero Rust and Rust Encapsulator) could have the same properties - and therefore work the same - as would products like POR15 ( and now RustBullet), which are single-part epoxy products. (To see my LONG-TERM  POR15 vs RUST BULLET test, please search contents).

Some time after making those comments, the Zero Rust people sent me some of their product and asked me to try it, which I did. After several trials in my restoration business, I still felt the same way, but there where a few voices - some in the profession - saying otherwise. It was then that I decided to do some actual "testing"of these products. As luck would have it, I had also just partnered with Eastwood, so I ordered some samples of their product, Rust Encapsulator,as well.



While not a "scientific" test, it is a "real world" and "as intended" trail. The products where used as recommended, the way an enthusiast would use them in their shops or garages. In every instance, both Rust Encapsulator and Zero Rust were applied from the spray cans supplied, using 3-5 medium wet coats. The POR15 was applied with a brush in a single, thin coat. Regardless of the number of coats or the percieved thickness of product application, all products where applied per instructions, at temperatures near 60F/15C and as you would in practice, to cover rust and confer some protection, as advertised.

I have 3 expereinces (or "tests" if you will) to share with you:

In the first instance, I applied Eastwood's Rust Encapsulator and POR15 to either end of a spare tailgate for my 1946 Mercury truck. This item had lived outside for a long time and had developed an even surface rust, making them the exact surfaces applicable for these products. Since the application of these products, this particular Tailgate was kept inside my shop, dry, at temperatures between 7C and 25C. In this trial then, the products where not subjected to harsh conditions (as per a susequent, ongoing test) so we can see how they age on their own.

After about 2 years one can see that the Rust Encapsulator has "thinned", while the POR15 has remained solid and opaque. Again, this part stayed inside my shop all this time, so I'm not sure why the amount of Rust Encapsulator would have decreased on the panel. Looking closely, you can almost see the rust through the coating in some spots, leading me to believe there is a lack of solids in the product and that one may infer it will ot provide a long-lasting coating.

1946 Mercury Tailgate: On the left is the Rust Encapsulator, on the right the POR15.
Above: If you look closely at the above photo, you'll see how the Rust Encapsulator has - for lack of a better term - worn out. You can almost see through it to the rusted surface in some spots. If exposed to the elements outside, I would guess the product would provide less than optimal protection.

Below is the POR15 coated portion. It still looks solid and opaque. There doesn't appear to be a weakening or wearing of the product and rust-through is non-existent.

Of course that being a fairly easy test and certainly not the one everone wants to see,  I did a second test where the part (another tailgate) was left in the elements for an extended time. This time all three products (POR15, Rust Encapsulator and ZeroRust) where used on a Chevy tailgate that had been exposed to the elements long enough to produce a heavy coating of surface rust on it. After proper application of all 3 products, the tailgate has been left outside, throughout the seasons. This test was started about 6 months ago, so not yet ready to be reported on. I'll do a full posting on the results in another 12-18 months, depending on how fast I see differences in the performance of the products.

This third experience speaks to the compositon of these products, their robustness, as well as their ability to resist chemical degradation and protect what is under them:
We all know that brake fluid is highly toxic to paint - right? In the photo below, the brake backing and tie rod on a 1956 Chevy Truck restoration where brush painted with POR15, but the wheel rim was sprayed with Zero Rust. After bleeding the brakes and getting brake fluid all over both surfaces, the Zero Rust was completely removed while the POR15 was untouched. Up close, one could see the POR15 was completely intact and would likely never be impacted by brake fluid. Again, both surfaces where in prolongued (several days) contact with brake fluid before being noticed and wiped down.

It doesn't take a rocket scientist to know that products in a spray can cannot dry as would an epoxy. If it did, it would ruin the spray tip so that upon second use, it would not spray again! For anyone that has ever used POR15 (which cures in the presence of atmopheric moisture) you know just how hard it dries. It actually WELDS the lid to the can and it dries to a hard shell, regardless of how thickly or thin it is applied. On a suitable surface, POR15 bonds like nothing else you'll ever try.

The exposure test will be the most telling. After 2 years exposure to the elements, in a climate that ranges between 30 below (-28F) to 30 above (120F), we'll be able to say it was tested under the most extreme conditions! So check back to this site often, or better yet, sign up with your email address for update notification!

Don't forget to check out the website at www.E-tekRestorations.com !