August 19, 2017

Rebuilding the twin SU carburetors for the 240 Zed

This weekend I'm completing the SU carbs rebuild and shining up all the bits before refitting the carbs to the intake runners. The twin SU set up, from rebuild to reassembly can take 6-8 hours!


Also, while we're on this side of the engine, the thermostat and housing needs to be reinstalled...



As I forgot to include a new thermostat when I ordered all the parts for the rebuild, I threw the original one in some boiling water to ensure  it was still in working condition - which it is!


Before starting I collected everything I needed -including the manual,  rebuild kit and all the parts and pieces, doing one side at a time on an old cookie sheet I borrowed from the kitchen... ssssshhh! ;)




 Adjusting the float level was first up, bending the small tine on the backside of the float and utilizing the little ruler that comes in the rebuild kit to measure 14 millimeters of space between the bottom surface and the float....



Changing out the float nozzle was next.... The new float nozzle was a little different than the old one. Hoping that it's just new and improved.


 And after all of that was done, I reassembled the entire carb assembly with new gaskets and it was time to put it all back together on the engine.

Below the carbs you can see the warm air duct that comes off the exhaust manifold and links up to the airbox...


The entire assembly is very blingy and a defining hallmark of the twin-SU setup used in Datson's, as well as some Ferraris and other interesting marquis of that era.

The original Japanese hose clamps, known as wire clamps, came out like new when hit with the wire 
wheel. 



I especially love restoring the nuts, bolts, washers and anything else the car came with. No Gas Station hose clamps on my rebuilds!

August 13, 2017

Changing gears: 1971 Datsun 240Z restoration

Time to totally change gears and work on the 240 said that I had painted in the shop with Duplicolor paint about two years back. Everything is there to complete it, including a few thousand $$ in new parts, but other projects got in front. I told myself I'd finish it for my sons 16th birthday and he turns 14 this year so time to get cracking!

The engine has to go back together before I can get to everything else that needs to be done to renew this sweet 71 sports car....so that's where I'm starting...


 After 2 years it's lucky that everything is labeled and in bags. This is the most important thing you can do in a restoration! Fuel pump was bolted back on after timing cover was reassembled.


 I had previously removed the cam and timing chain sprocket to change the timing chain. It's quite a bit of work to get it back on and to time everything properly by getting all the marks lined up.


 Once the timing chain and sprocket are back in their correct location it was time to affix the exhaust and intake manifolds.

 The oil pump on the 240Z has to be removed cleaned rebuilt and the distributor gear clocked property before being reinstalled. I used two different Factory manuals to get it back into the proper sequence.



 The pan bolts barely required 3 ft pounds each and at first I had them at 5 would squeeze the neoprene seal out past the edges. Easy Does It!

 Cleaning up and reinstalling the block off plate.


 After looking in both manuals and everywhere online I could not find a single source that showed the sequence to reassemble the relief valve spring and cap in the Datsuns oil pump. I finally figured out so for other people's future reference here it is:

Stay tuned as I complete the 240Z's 6 cylinder engine renewal and get it back in the car on the way to finishing another awesome restoration of a classic motorcar!

July 16, 2017

Time for a change: Porsche 986 repairs


After seeing a small release of coolant on a short drive, I found the Boxster had a pin-hole leak CRAP!   Oh well, thats the car hobby...it's either drive 'em or fix 'em.

Step one, remove front bumner cover to get at the rads....

With the cover off you can see the years of dirt and debris that gets stuck in behind....




It's like a prairie natural museum in here...



The one one the left - behind the AC condenser was the one giving me the problems...


Due to the pin-hole (?) leak, debri had been collecting and turning into mud....which would have been blocking the cooling ability of the rad as well.


Getting the rad out wasn't too much of an issue. One the fender skirt and cover where removed and the hose clamps loosened off, 3 bolts holds its frame to the main inner structure. Then it's just upper and lower rad hoses, a vent hose and the fan wire. I recommend applying wd40 or similar to loosen the hoses from the piping.

As you can see below, I tied the AC condenser and out of the way with a wire tie.
Here's the rad from behind out of the car and on the floor...



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July 15, 2017

Restoring and repairing original steering wheel for 1956 International Harvester

Restoring and detailing all the bits and pieces is the dun part of any restoration.

Today I tackled the steering wheel. These old wheels where made of bakelight or similar plastic that had a habit of separating and spreading apart from the underlined steel frame. Luckily they're easy enough to repair which includes grinding and beveling out the separated areas and filling with appropriate materials.

 A grinder is used to rough out the gaps and bevel the edges that need to be filled.


 Vinyl hand sanding is done to bring sanded area further out from the repair.


For the largest areas I mixed up some kitty hair which includes a fiberglass resin.


 The kitty hair is packed into the largest areas and allowed to cure.


 Once hardened the fiberglass is rough smooth with the grinder. I'll smooth it down with some hand sanding and then we'll put a final skim of filler across the repairs before priming and painting to perfection.


 www.E-tekRestorations.googlepages.com !

1956 International S120 - Color sanding

Color sanding a fresh paint job is fairly common practice now - especially when you want to bring the overall restoration into the highest categories of superb paint work. The procedure starts with 600 or 800 wet paper to knock down any dust nibs or rough that is really rough clear  including orange peel and dry spots. Once that is carefully knocked down you move up in increments and finer sand papers through 1000 grit than 1500 then 2000 and 3000. Often 1500 up is done with the DA sander.




 Here it is after sanding with 600 grit wet paper. The white residue is the clear that is sanded off.



Looking closely, you can see the spots that are sanded down to flat. This is ready for sanding with 1500 and 2000.


Once DA'd with 3000 grit, we'll be ready for the final (although very time consuming) polishing stage. More on that next week....

www.E-tekRestorations.googlepages.com

July 9, 2017

1956 International S120 build - Detailing parts for re-installation

Restorated and painted all the heater, dash and suspension parts today...

Now have to have the seats upholstered...
The rad boiled and combed...
And New tires all around!